¶ The zooty design of the Vital Farms egg crate has a pitch-black background that certainly got my attention. It is the black of a night in the country, not a downtown black at all. Little purple and white flowers twinkle like stars, while the two mottled hens, labeled “On Green Grass” and “Under Open Skies,” have the look of constellations. In the upper corners, with circus-tent élan, flourish the banners “Happy Hens” and “Ethical Eggs.” More soberly, signs in the bottom corners announce “Made With Fresh Air And Sunshine” and “Freedom to Forage Outdoors Year Round.” It’s an event, not a dozen eggs. As often happens, I had to have the package. 

The eggs turn out to be really good. The yolks are intensely yellow, almost golden — offputtingly, if, like me, you’re used to Fairway’s house brand. They’re more flavorful, too, as I found when I stirred one into a dish of spaghetti alla carbonara. They appear to be fresher; the whites are more coherent. Of course, they’re not that fresh; they can’t be, in the city. Well, not at Fairway, anyway. I expect that everything at Fairway goes through several distributory cycles before landing on the shelves. The information on the back of the crate is a little obscure, and all that I can make out is that the eggs are packed either in Missouri or Georgia. 

My receipt tells me that I paid $6.49 for the dozen. 

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