¶ Making celery soup over the weekend, I set the leafy tips of the celery stalks aside, thinking that I might for once follow Paul Hollywood’s instructions, and chop them to use as a garnish. I put them in a small green Italian tumbler.

As usual, I decided to go with snipped chives when I served the soup that evening. The celery leaves are still in the glass, still firm and bright, and only beginning to pale.

The sight of them on the counter when I walk into the kitchen lifts my spirits, even on those rare occasions when my spirits don’t need lifting.

If I bought a small green plant — I can’t think of anything quite so light-green — it wouldn’t be the same, and I don’t really have room for decorations. 

Best to regard the celery leaves as extended servings of a meal. Something to look forward to, next time I make celery soup. Which I do, now, often.

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