¶ Waiting for Windows 10 updates — a process that I appear to have aborted — I leafed through the chapter on sauces in Elizabeth David’s Summer Cooking, and discovered (for I’d never heard of it) mayonnaise mousseuse. You blend into the mayonnaise either a bit of whipped cream or a beaten egg white. “Good for cold salmon, and for asparagus.” What a happy thing to look forward to on the last day of January! I’m going to go with the egg white, I think.

¶ I may even make my own mayonnaise. Like most New Yorkers, I grew up on Hellman’s, which, unlike other commercial preparations, is really good enough to insist that it has the true mayonnaise flavor. I’m also not crazy about olive oil at the best of times, preferring extremely neutral peanut oil or, for flavor, walnut oil. I stock a very expensive Spanish olive oil that is super in preparations, such as tapenade, that are so far out of the Northeast Corridor orbit that the olive oil isn’t stranger than anything else,  but when it comes to mayonnaise I don’t want anything getting in the way of the egg yolks.

In honor of E D, however, I will give olive another try when I make mayonnaise mousseuse.

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